Just installed the R6 throttle tube and took the first ride, I must say, it is very different. For those of you who are unfamiliar, the R6 throttle tube has a larger Cam diameter making the distance from closed to open throttle about 1/6th turn instead of 1/5th turn. The mod was simple and relatively inexpensive. I like it, although it will take some getting used to, as a minor change in the throttle results in a larger output than the stock throttle. All in all, it was a worth while mod, it definitely gives the bike the appearance of being faster than it is, and it is more comfortable to hit WOT, as you do not need to re position your hand. You are right when you say it gives the appearance of being faster. It is one of the oldest tricks by tuners to fool people into thinking their vehicle, car / bike, is faster than it actually is.
I had a tuner do this to my Mustang and absolutely hated it. It made for a very jerky off the line throttle response.
Don't know how it would be on a bike. I see your point about full throttle being easier to obtain because you don't have to twist the grip as much.
However, I've been riding a long time as have many others on this board and don't think I would like full throttle being reached without a full turn of the grip. Old habits and such. Good luck with it though. I can definitely see gas mileage taking a dive until you get used to it. Here's some links. How to: Product: Part number: Yamaha 2C Grip Assembly The one from Amazon is the nylon tube with a new R6 grip on it. It doesn't have a second grip as shown.
If you want to try your local dealer, they may have just the tube for under 20 bucks, but make sure you check the part number. I didn't want to get into that with my local yamaha dealer because they are all a bunch of morons and is probably end up with the wrong tube. Again, overall installation took 5 minutes. The how to guide off the cbr forum I linked above is very in depth and makes it seem like a longer process than it is.
Without the ecu being flashed, I do feel the throttle snatch more severely now. Not worried because I'm going to send it to I an during this off season. Search Engine Optimisation provided by - Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Feedback Buttons provided by - Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Copyright ©2008, All content is property of 998cc.org All Rights Reserved.
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In this video I describe my experience swapping my OEM SV650 throttle tube for the R6 throttle tube. This mod greatly increases throttle sensitivity and allows me to have much quicker acceleration with less wrist twist as well as maintain freeway speeds more effortlessly. Installation was extremely easy as described in the video. You can buy the R6 throttle tube from a variety of manufacturers.
I bought mine used off eBay. Typically the cost is less than 10 dollars. Thanks for watching!
Ok, after reading the various threads about different options for 1/6-turn throttles, I decided to go the R6 throttle tube route. I'm a DIY kinda guy, and figured if can build an engine, I should be able to make the R6 tube work, and save some serious bucks over the HRC kit. In case you've never heard of this mod, basically it works thusly: The standard throttle tube on the CBR1000RR is a '1/4 turn' tube, meaning you turn the tube approximately 90-degrees of rotation to go from idle to WOT. The Yamaha R6 '06 and newer come stock with a '1/6 turn' throttle, which reduces this rotation down to 60-degrees to go from idle to WOT.
You can go WOT easier without putting your wrist at as odd an angle. The way it does this is simply by having a larger diameter at the throttle cable end, hence pulling faster on the cables as you rotate it. HRC makes a full kit for this which includes the tube, new cables, etc. In the $150 price range, but the R6 tube will work with the stock cables and is less than $20. I've seen some warnings on the board about 'not taking the cheap way out' but to be honest, compared to some things I've seen people do, I consider this very safe if you do it right, and it's not that difficult.
I think installing the HRC kit with new throttle cables is considerably more complicated for a home mechanic, and leaves more room for error messing with the airbox and throttle cables at the throttle-body end, but that's just my opinion. If you want the 'best' setup, it's probably the HRC kit, but this works great if you are willing to put a little into the install.
It's not hard at all. Ok, step by step, here we go. Here is my throttle tube, stock.
Note I have Helibars, so yours may look a bit different, but it's the same tube. Note my cables are spun around to the bottom to allow the slightly higher bars than stock, but aside from that, same difference. First, remove the two screws holding the throttle-tube housing onto the clip-on.
On mine they are on the top, but with stock bars they will be on the bottom instead. Since mine are on top, it's actually easier to see. I've heard stories of people having big problems removing these, but mine weren't that bad.
If one is too tight, try the other one first before stripping the first one off. I've also read that these are actually JIS-type screw heads, and not standard phillips, so it might work better if you use the JIS screwdriver that came with your bike, or buy a set. Next, remove the bar-end weight. Just hold the weight itself securely, and remove the screw in the end.
It's long winded, so takes a while to back out. Here's a shot with the bar-end weight removed. Note the throttle-tube extends out past the end of the actual bar, and the weight goes up into it. Ok, next are a couple shots of what you will see once you remove the top of the throttle-tube housing. This is the stock throttle-tube with cables still in it. I took pics of a few angles so you could get a good view of it. Notice the housing is far larger than the cable-end of the tube, allowing room for a larger tube as well.
Here's a pic of the throttle cover that comes off; note it is large, and has no obstructions in it. The larger R6 tube fits fine in this side! Ok, next up, we need to talk about the throttle cable connections that come into the housing. Since you will need all the slack you can get in the cables, I recommend loosening the locknuts that hold the cable elbows to the housing, and unlock the cable adjuster on the right of the pic, and screw it all the way down, as shown in the pic.
You are looking to loosen the cables as much as possible here, to get them off of the stock tube, and then onto the R6 tube without having to loosen the cables at the throttle body. I actually had to slide the throttle-tube off the bar to wrangle enough slack to get the cables out of the stock tube. I used a small screwdriver to get my fingers under the cable, and push the end of the cable out of the tube. It's not easy, so work with it, and be careful not to nick or damage the cables in any way.
Here's a shot of the end of the throttle cables, after removing from the tube entirely. Ok, let's get to the new tube! Here's the package the R6 tube comes in, along with the part number ( 2C0-26240-00-00). It cost me $13 at the local Yamaha dealer, but my brother bought one a couple days later and it was $22 now, so maybe there's been a recent price increase. Either way, not much money, and the quality is good. It looks just like the Honda OEM piece, just with a larger cable end. Next, here are several pics comparing the stock Honda tube and the R6 tube.
You will notice they look very much alike, except for the much larger end on the R6 tube. I took a photo of the grips comparing them. The Yamaha grip is slightly different than the Honda one, but I'd be willing to bet no one notices. I'm leaving it until they wear out, and I'll replace both. Ok, now we crash into the only real speedbump in the road. The other side of the housing, where the throttle cables thread into, has some metal in the way of the larger R6 tube.
Some people sand down the tube itself to clear these bumps, but I decided to grind down the bumps themselves with a dremel. That way my housing was compatible with whatever tube I want to throw at it. Either way works though, you need to grind down these bumps, or the back-side of the R6 tube, opposite where the cables connect, to clear these bumps.
When you insert the new tube into the housing, it becomes clear what has to happen. In these photos, you can clearly see the bumps in the way. (I have some photos later of them after I ground them.) Next are a couple photos showing the clearance of the R6 tube in the stock housing. Notice except for the metal bumps mentioned above, there is PLENTY of room. Ok, time to whip out the dremel with a carbide cutting wheel. The material is aluminum, so grinds easy. 15 minutes later, I had plenty clearance for the new tube, and it fits perfectly!
Here you can see the bumps, ground down enough so the R6 tube doesn't touch them at all. I'd say you have to grind like 1/32' off the bumps to make room, but I ground probably well over 1/16' to make sure there was no chance of it hitting. Once this is done, it fits perfectly in both sides of the housing. Note, this is the main place an error could occur during the install. Be sure you grind these bumps down enough so the tube has plenty of clearance.
You do NOT have to completely grind the bumps off, just enough for the new tube, and a little more to spare. Ok, time to start reassembling. Here you will note I screwed the 'accelerate' pull-side of the cable elbow much farther into the housing, to give me as much cable slack as possible. The Helibars take up even more slack, so you might not have to do this, but I had to screw this in farther, as well as set the slack adjustment nuts as slack as possible, and even then I BARELY got the cable on the new tube. Be careful with the cables and be sure not to damage them with a screwdriver tip or anything similar. (Notice the elbow on the left is screwed in farther than it was initially above.) Ok, here is the R6 tube, with the cables in it. It was NOT very easy in my case to get the cables in.
I had to fiddle with it a while, but again take your time, work with the slack as best you can, and again don't damage the cables. Try not to twist them either, they should be as relaxed as possible, not twisted up, etc. I noticed the stock tube had a little grease on it, so I put a light coating of anti-sieze grease on most of the stuff that moves. Here are several pics of the R6 tube installed, from various angles. Next, here's where we come to a part I messed up. The R6 tube has a large black plastic or nylon washer between the cable end, and the grip.
I wasn't sure if I should put this into the housing, or outside. The Honda tube has no such washer, so I couldn't go by that. I initially installed it inside the housing, but it was too tight, and the throttle was sticky. Here's a couple pics, first with the washer inside, and then again with it moved outside. (This was a pain; I had to remove the cables and move the washer, then re-install the cables again, and this is difficult!) Take my advice, put the black washer OUTSIDE the housing!
Aluminum Throttle Tube
You don't want to do the cables twice, trust me. Ok, all that's left at this point is to install the top of the housing (two screws), and the bar-end weight! On the bar-end weight, be sure it is oriented correctly. You will note it only fits into the bar-end a certain way, so be sure the orientation is correct before tightening.
There is a hole in the handlebar that locates the throttle housing; you will see a nipple on the housing cover that goes into this hole. Be sure these are aligned properly; this is what holds the entire thing in position on the bar. In the pic near the top of the housing, you can see this nipple. Once done tightening the housing back onto the handlebar, tighten the lock-nuts on both cable elbows so they point at the correct, most relaxed angle.
Then set your proper throttle play with the adjustment nut. The service manual calls for 2-5mm (1/16-3/16) play in the throttle tube rotation. With mine adjusted loose as possible, my throttle slack is PERFECT. About 2-3mm or so. Some light it tighter, but I like a little slack in mine. Free download game full version. My bike is fairly new so the cables haven't stretched, but some of you might have more slack to work with.
Make SURE you have some slack, and there is NO BINDING anywhere; the housing, bar-end, anything. When you open the throttle and let it go, it should snap back with no friction, just like stock. Check it at all turning angles; straight ahead, locked left, locked right, etc.
Make sure no binding, and proper slack at all locations. Again, my pics are with Helibars, so if you have stock bars your throttle cables will be on TOP, not like mine which come out the bottom. Aside from that, it will be the same. My throttle feels smooth as silk, just like OEM, with no binding, or any problems whatsoever!
The throttle tube is a Yamaha OEM part so the same quality as the stock Honda part. With the minor modifications to the housing, it fits perfectly. Here are the final pics, all done! I did the entire thing, start to finish, in about an hour and a half, taking pics along the way and taking my time listening to X-Mas music.
This included grinding. You can't go wrong for around $20!
First off, installed an R6 throttle tube (part# 5SL-26240-01-00). All I can say is amazing. All people normally say is it'll shorten the length you have to twist the throttle. They fail to mention, however, that shifting is now just a slight flick of the wrist, verses having to rotate your hand forward a ways. Shifting is quicker and seems to be more precise. I did not have to modify mine.
Seems I had enough play in the throttle cable that the R6 tube still allows the throttle bodies to close completely. All slop is gone (me likey!) but they definitely close all the way (idle is fine, when I close the throttle I can hear the throttle flaps hitting the stops inside the TBs). Cost a mere $9.62. Do eeeeeeeeet! Next I de-snorkled my SV. I used to be against this, but now am completely for it. Contrary to what I have read, it does make a different in power and power delivery (and of course, sound).
A couple night ago I ran against another SV a few times. Every time I would jump ahead by a tad then he'd pull on me (we have the same mods).
Now we're dead even. I also had a chance to ride his SV before and after I took out my snorkel. My accelerates just like his (just so I know he wasn't sandbagging). Seems taking out the snorkel takes away a little low-end grunt but adds a considerable amount of mid- and top-end. Taken from Canyon Chasers' write-up: Installing the tube on the Gen-I (curvy) SV is as simple as taking out the old one and inserting the new one. However, the Gen-II’s need a little bit of modification. (There is no difference between Naked or S version SV’s – Only Gen-I and Gen-II).
On the Gen-II’s a little bit of the tube needs to be cut away otherwise the throttle will not return to a fully closed position. Installation is easy. 1) Remove bar end (or mirror) 2) Slide rubber cover off throttle cables at the housing 3) Remove both phillips head bolts securing the cable cover/housing 4) Undo cables from tube and slide old tube off, complete with grip 5) Installation is reverse of removal. My bike came w/ an R6 throttle tube but since it was my first bike I had the previous owner take it off ( and give it to me). I figured I'd like to get used to the stock throttle first, then I'd appreciate the mod more.
Not to mention it would probably be safer for me. One year of daily riding (in all weather conditions) later, I think I'm ready to experience the great venerable R6 throttle tube. The only problem is that I thought about it AFTER I installed grip warmers. Now I don't want to go through the trouble. I guess I'll wait awhile longer. Next I de-snorkled my SV. I used to be against this, but now am completely for it.
Contrary to what I have read, it does make a different in power and power delivery (and of course, sound). A couple night ago I ran against another SV a few times. Every time I would jump ahead by a tad then he'd pull on me (we have the same mods). Now we're dead even. I also had a chance to ride his SV before and after I took out my snorkel. My accelerates just like his (just so I know he wasn't sandbagging). Seems taking out the snorkel takes away a little low-end grunt but adds a considerable amount of mid- and top-end.
A+ Shimming the Gen 1 gas tank up about a 1/2 inch using spacers and longer bolts will give you a ram air edge. Note that all the specs on r6 twist ratio and stock sv ratio are not dead-set, an r6 has a shorter throttle throw because A.
Higher camming distance of the throttle tube, but also B because it takes less cable travel to get to WOT. SO, a r6 throttle tube on an sv doesn't take you quite to R6 level, but it is certainly worth doing. I really like mine. No regrets, and it's so cheap. As for grips- You can always use this as a convenient time to switch out for some nice grips- I put on some superbike grips I got for free, a little bigger, and cooshier, which works well for my size hands. And that part number is all you need, throw it in ron ayers, and be done with it.
Youre not gonna get one cheaper than $9 anyways. I did the r6 throttle and want to get the left grip so that it matches i assume it will fit.
Let us know if it does also it seems like i can come very close to wot without cuting the r6 grip but you i don't hear the linkage click at the end of the throw like it used to.(03svs) so ill take it apart and cut it sometime. Very happy with this mod it took out the slack at the beginning of the throw too. Just did the r6 throttle tube and left grip, which does fit btw. The grip is a little bit shorter but then again so is the throttle tube. It is about 1/4 of an inch gap on both sides. Can't tell you how happy i am with this mod, my wrist is very thankful!
And the part number for the left grip is: 4YR-26241-02-00. I liked the R6 tube b/c it was physically bigger, which fit my hand better. Plus I thought the shorter throw was great on my commute.
It reduced some of the wrist pain I was getting from constantly accelerating/deccelerating in traffic. I had to pull the air box and undo the throttle cables from the carbs to get it on though.
How much of a difference in wrist position is it when going 75mph? I did about a 20min ride on the freeway today to test out my new commute (it will be an hour going 75), and my wrists were starting to get uncomfortable. I ended up adjusting my, grip, but didn't like adjusting again when I got down to slower speeds. IMO Canyonchasers write up is not completely accurate. 2g Naked no cut. 2g SVS requires cut. Dubtec, you need to visually check your throttle is opening/closing 100%.
Snorkel-let's see a dyno chart for proof of improved throttle response or more power because either is debatable. I did visually check that the throttle plates were opening - and closing - fully.
I even reinstalled the the factory tube for comparison. Installing Motion Pro extended throttle cables prevented the plates from opening 100%, so I did have to modify the tube last week. Taking out the snorkel may not give any extra horsepower, but it does definitely alter the power delivery (torque curve). It's like installing a taller intake manifold on a small block.alters the airflow into the engine allowing for more top-end. For argument sakes, I reinstalled the snorkel a long time ago as I prefer the low-end torque.
I did visually check that the throttle plates were opening - and closing - fully. I even reinstalled the the factory tube for comparison. Installing Motion Pro extended throttle cables prevented the plates from opening 100%, so I did have to modify the tube last week. Taking out the snorkel may not give any extra horsepower, but it does definitely alter the power delivery (torque curve).
It's like installing a taller intake manifold on a small block.alters the airflow into the engine allowing for more top-end. For argument sakes, I reinstalled the snorkel a long time ago as I prefer the low-end torque. If so then for a 2G SVS your machine is an anomaly, every other 2G SVS I have read about has had to cut the tube with the OEM cables in order for it to work properly. Perhaps you did not witness the open/close accurately? As for the snorkel, I dont agree with your analogy.
En ured what tant to people, which would have provided quantitative isconfirmation. But the numbers don't lie, right? En an economist would see the problem ith that result.
However without dyno charts or my flow dynamics engineer hat on I am not going to debate what you felt versus what the part does versus the small block Chevy reference. If so then for a 2G SVS your machine is an anomaly, every other 2G SVS I have read about has had to cut the tube with the OEM cables in order for it to work properly. Perhaps you did not witness the open/close accurately?
As for the snorkel, I dont agree with your analogy. However without dyno charts or my flow dynamics engineer hat on I am not going to debate what you felt versus what the part does versus the small block Chevy reference. Perhaps the other '07 owners in this thread who claim theirs did not require modification are mistaken? I really don't think it's that difficult to grasp - Suzuki changed a few things for the 2007 model year.
What's to say they didn't change one tiny little thing on the throttle cables? I definitely witnessed the throttle plates opening 100%. As stated, I even reinstalled the factory tube to just to double check. I never had any problem staying with other SVs at WOT, even ones with the original throttle tube. Did you miss the part about me installing different throttle cables and have to modify the tube to achieve WOT?
Same goes for the intake flow - it isn't that difficult to understand. The small block Chevy reference was only one example. Have you ever installed an aftermarket intake on an import sports car? Ever read the difference between a Cold Air and a Ram Air?
The main difference is the length of the intake tract. The Ram Air is basically a filter mounted directly, or very near, the MAF or throttle body.
A Cold Air Intake has a long tube that places the filter in a different spot. I believe it to be common knowledge in that field that a shorter intake (Ram Air, for example) will yield quicker throttle response and more low-end torque. A long intake tract alters the airflow, resulting in more top-end power at the expense of low-end torque and throttle response. A more accurate example is exhaust diameter and Exhaust Gas Velocity (EGV). A Smaller exhaust diameter will yield a higher EGV, resulting in more low-end torque.
As you guessed, a larger exhaust diameter will result in more top-end. Ever wonder why those pesky Hondas with obnoxious fart cans have such a high-pitched exhaust tone? It isn't just because they have a small engine - most of it is because their exhaust is tiny (the flow rate is high). You can take the same vehicle, put a 3' exhaust on it without changing anything else, and get a much lower exhaust tone (not to mention loss of power due to inefficient scavenging).
This is the same as the SV's intake snorkel in the fact that it forces the incoming air through a smaller area, resulting in a higher flow rate and more low-end. Take out the snorkel, and the incoming air has a much larger opening to pass through, resulting in more top-end.
Removing the snorkel may not add power, but it unquestionably alters the power/torque curve. But then again, my bike must be an anomaly, right?